Trapper Peak, North Cascades Part II
We got to the permit station in Marblemount around 8AM. I wasn't looking forward to this part, because I find the NCNP permit system frustrating. You have to know where you'll be each night, and you can't reserve a permit ahead of time. I much prefer the system in use in the Sierra national parks. Entry trailhead, number of days, option to reserve ahead. We decided to just do a couple of overnights, so I anticipated making two trips to the permit station.
Thanks to some helpful rangers and what seemed like a loophole, it worked out better than expected. We got a permit for Thornton Lakes for the first night. The third night we wanted to be at Sahale Glacier Camp. Johannesburg Camp (at the Cascade Pass trailhead) is operated as a backcountry site, so we were able to make that our second night and get the permit all on one trip, even though we'd be driving halfway accorss the park in the middle.
The Thornton Lake trail starts off level, going through some seriously ugly brushy logged out forest, then heads steeply up through incredible old growth. Great Hemlocks grow with exposed roots on top of big granite boulders which are scattered throughout the forest. The contrast is dramatic, and depressing. Once on the ridge we began the traverse towards Trapper Peak. The views were shrouded in smoke, so we decided to turn around, drop to the lake and climb the peak in the morning.
Trapper Peak made our short list on this trip for one reason; I wanted a good view of the Pickets. Lower Thornton lake is pretty, but the camp is about as nice as the descriptions I'd read (i.e. not very). I dislike designated backcountry campsites to begin with. They accumulate micro-trash and food scraps, and attract rodents, bears, and other critters better encountered away from camp. All of these detract from the wilderness experience. They're also rarely selected for any of the criteria I'd consider when picking out a campsite.
We considered going to the upper lake to avoid the designated sites, but again, didn't want to push Ethan. Despite these shortcomings, we had an enjoyable evening in camp, and slept reasonably well. The large black bear that had been through camp the morning before we arrived didn't make a return visit. Just as we were about to leave in the morning, Linette had an unsettling mishap with a log. After determining she was OK, we made the steep climb back up to the ridge and followed it to the summit, which involves a few sections of fun scrambling.
After a good hour of soaking up the views we'd come here for, we headed for the car and then back to Marblemount. We picked up a couple of 'groceries' at the mini mart and grabbed some dinner before driving up Cascade River Road. We got to the parking lot at the end of the road just in time to see the last light on the peaks. Staring up at the massive 5,000 foot north face of Johannesburg Mountain for the first time was humbling and far more impressive than the (distant) views of the Pickets.
A sign shortly before the parking lot indicated it was 200 yards to Johannesburg Camp, but the camp was nowhere to be found. I was about to find out why they treat it as a backcountry camp. It took me a while to figure out that the trail heads off into the woods right at the sign. I went to scope it out finding that it was more like a 1/4 mile hike. We pulled in next to a picnic table and spent a good while organizing and packing, then carried the tent and sleeping bags up to the camp through the now black forest. I made three or four trips back and forth by the time I went to bed.